Croatia today, around 120K.
Had been in two minds about whether I should take a more northerly route, but Camping Suza Baranje in Croatia came highly recommended by both monteandkemodo and Lauren Pears, so seems like a pretty good option.
Weather was absolutely perfect, sun shining and I had a huge breakfast of ham and eggs at Mediterran Cafe overlooking the main square with the Holy Trinity statue at its centre commemorating a plague during the 1750s.
On one one side was the impressive Town Hall, formally Grassalkovich Palace with its ornate Neo-Renaissance detailing and opposite was the Sugovica tributary, whose presence gave Baja a really pleasant vibe.
It was fun watching the whole city get ready for the day, although if it were me, I would remove the car parking around the immediate vicinity and make the whole place totally pedestrian.
I set off following the EV6 signs but got lost, and I suspected that the signs had been switched around in places in order to confound and confuse. But I did eventually get out of the city with the help of a local guy who pointed me in the right direction; it wasn't the first time he had done that and somehow it made me feel better that I was clearly not the first cycle tourist even if I felt like it. I really haven't seen any other cyclists for days, perhaps it is a Covid thing. It's fine, but at times I could do with the company.
However I do have loads of podcasts and music to listen to, my current favourite is anything by Simple Minds and I crank it up to full volume as I whizz down the silky smooth dykes towards Dunafalva where I was hoping to get a ferry across the Danube and head onto Mohács. However there didn't seem to be any running, so I headed off down a country lane to join the 51 and get a ferry further down which would bring me straight into the town.
Mohács, I knew from my tour with Auden when in Budapest, was important in the history of Hungary due to the battles of 1526 and 1687 that marked the beginning and end of Ottoman domination in the country. It certainly had a unique Moorish feel to it with its main Town Hall in cream and pink stonework with green domes and in front of it, the Statue of the Three Nationalities.
Loving that there are so many colourful buildings, with all faiths represented and living in harmony and the main one that stood out was green domed Votive Church with its colonnades.
Also loving the sparkly silver Memorial of the Battle in the main square with an larger than life and rather unhappy looking figure, which I was guessing was King Louis II who got trashed in the first battle.
This was to be my last town in Hungary and I had forints to burn. I looked around for some healthy food options, but there were no obvious ones so I bought some huge pizza. As I munched, I noted some elegant women at tables and in the glorious sunshine, it had a very cosmopolitan feel.
And then, off again in the direction of Croatia which was only a short 10KM away. Surrounded by endless fields and a rather ominous looking watchtower,
It wasn't long until I came upon a very long lines of very stationary trucks. All the drivers looked as though they had been there for hours, which of course they probably had.
So pleased I could head straight to the head of the queue and for the first time since leaving the UK, my passport was actually checked albeit fleetingly.
And then, there I was - in Croatia!!😊
So pumped for my 8th country and on a mini high as I continued ever on along deserted roads and kilometres of flat countryside stretching on forever; it reminded me of the crop duster scene in North by Northwest at times.
I was in an area especially known for its vineyards, fields and quality wines. It was also known as the Amazon of Europe, apparently.
The campsite wasn't too far and I was there in no time.
There was noone around at all, although there were a couple of RV's that looked as though they were stationed there for some considerable time. I set up my tent and used the excellent facilities, expecting that the owners would turn up at some point.
Slung between a couple of trees was a hammock, into which I happily installed myself and alternated between listening to podcast about a guy who posted himself back to the UK from Australia, reading and calling home. Bliss. Also got a message from Michael and it seems he isn't too far from me, so I suspect we will end up meeting again after all.
Did a ton of washing as well and then the owner turned up. Turns out he was one of the Kolar family, an entrepreneurial set up centred mainly around their vineyard and winery that produces a variety of wines including the most popular Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. A lovely guy, he took a glance at my passport and said to pass by the main cellar buildings on my way out tomorrow morning to pay.
I cycled down to Suza to pick up some supplies, although the shop wasn't great in that respect. There were a couple or restaurants nearby and I decided to stop by later for dinner, which I did. Can't remember the food, but the wine was good. Very pleased I had great lights as it was pitch black by the time I left and the main road, although fairly traffic free, felt a tad dangerous in the dark.
By the time I got back, a large noisy family had moved in very close to my tent, but they were friendly enough. Slept well.
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