So, EV13 it is. No denying, I am a tad apprehensive about this decision; as it seems likely I won't meet many cyclists, it isn't well signposted, is challenging in terms of climbs (although that also means cool descents) and at times, quite lonely I imagine. But, it does look amazing and given that it is autumn, the colours of the trees should be wonderful and I do love that kind of thing.
However, the main issue is the weather forcast for the next couple of days. Torrential rain, followed by rain and with some thunder along with.... downpours. The depressing small town of Dragoman is hardly the place one would want to be holed up in for any lenght of time, so I decide to leave my bike and stuff at the hotel and take the train into Sofia for the weekend and wait for the weather front to pass.
The train into Sofia is rather lovely, with wooden compartments, upholsterd interiors, sliding doors and train guards both on the trains themselves and at all stations that wear striking purple peaked caps. The schedule wasn't too frequent and as I arrived for the last train for about 2 and a half hours, I found out that they dont take cards and I didn't have any lev. I just hopped on board and hoped for the best, I did have a €20 euro note, so hopefully that would go. Which it did, but the guards were not very happy with me as they rummaged around for the correct change.
Joy of joys when I arrived, Sofia has trams. I love trams and hopped on the first one I saw that was going into the centre of town.
I hadn't worked out how to buy any tickets and didn't yet have any cash, so hoped that this would not be the time for a ticket inspector. I alighted at an impressive building with a majestic couple of bronze lions outside, which turned out to be the Sofia Court House.
Whilst it had been very overcast, it was at that moment that the heavens opened with a shattering clack, followed by thunderous rumbles. It was truly biblical and I took refuge in the nearest restaurant I saw, which turned out to be a burger place. Looked like I was going to be there for the duration, so I ordere a burger and worked out a place to stay for the evening. Once the deluge was over, I went over to check in and promptly set out again for a walking tour of the key sights with one of the many 'Free Walking Tours' that meet up outside the Court House.
It was a pretty huge group, maybe on account of the fact it was a Saturday evening and noone had been able to make the earlier tours due to weather. We checked out the main sites including Saint Nedelya Church and heard all about the terrorist attack of 1925 that resulted in over 150 deaths. Cunningly, the Communists had planned the attack meticulously by specifically killing an important general a few days before so that his funeral service at the church would result in all of the military top brass being present in one place at one time, so they could be removed in one go so to speak.
I was intrigued by the monumental 24 metre high bronze statue of St Sofia. It was installed in 2000 to replace one of Lenin which ovelooked all of the government buildings at Batemberg square.
Whilst she holds an owl in her left hand respresenting wisdom, a laurel wreath in her right to represent fame and wearing a crown to represent power, the main thing I noticed was her huge cleavage. It looked totally out of place and faintly ridiculous; I wonder what they did with the old statue of Lenin. It was interesting to hear about the
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