The family in the tent next to me were up earlier than I and made a racket doing so. They were super friendly and clattered off with a cheery 'have a good journey' in English and big smiles all round.
I was still off in good time and dropped by the wine shop reception to pay on my way out. I didn't realise that Croatia didn't take euros until I was in the shop yesterday, but as usual, everywhere took cards so no problem and I reckoned that as I would be leaving in Serbia by the end of the day, I could probably manage my whole time without touching an actual kuna.
Starving, I stopped off for something to eat at a café / bar in Kneževi Vinogradi. It seemed the entire village was in there drinking coffee but, as I soon found out, not eating any food. There wasn't any at that time in the morning, at least nothing substantial enough for what was required. The owner suggested I nip next door to the bakery for a hearty sandwich and she would supply the much needed coffee.
Unfortunately the bakery only accepted cash and then when I explained I hadn't got any, she simply offered me the food. No questions, no discussion, just a big smile and said you are welcome. Wow, I don't see that happening down the Portobello Road.
There was an ATM opposite, so I took out a couple of hundred Kuna and went to pay her, but the thought was there. Things like that can really put a smile on your face and along with the convivial, welcoming vibe from all the locals who kept turning to look at me and wish me luck amongst and in particular, one older guy who turned to me as he was leaving, rapped the table with his fist and said 'Well done' I realised how much I had missed the hum of this everyday conversation, but at the same time I didn't feel lonely. Just happy to be part of a communal gathering, in the moment as they say in all good Mindfulness books.
Then off I headed, next stop Osijek on the banks of the Drava. The route consisted of monotonous views, vineyards, fields and non descript villages interspersed with the odd pleasant enough church such as this one in the hamlet of Lug.
Apparently I was cycling through a huge nature park, the largest wetlands in Europe even, although I saw no sign of that.
Roads smooth and still no Danube views but it didn't matter. I was getting into war zone territory from the Yugoslav civil war of '91 - '95 and this place had its fair share of shelling by the Serbs and there were lots of roadside memorials amongst the vineyards and flat fields.
I got a bit lost and a tad frustrated at getting out of the city, and some guy took a picture of me saying my bags were amazing. I flew along towards Vukovar and at one point there was some protracted road works taking place and had one way traffic. I held everyone up, but no one seemed to mind. Every person I met was kind and considerate, including the drivers of both lorries and cars. Always giving me a wide berth and a thumbs up. I felt so good on the near perfect roads, the perfect weather and just watching the villages and countryside fly by. Nothing really to see and I wanted to make up the KMs so pressed on rather than stop for coffees etc.
Vukovar was a stop though, this place took the brunt of 12000 shells per day at the height of the war, mainly because of the large numbers of immigrants built up over a long time which caused tensions to explode when the war came. The entrance on the motorway had a bombed-out building with black fabric in the windows which was kept there in remembrance of the war.
On the other hand, some pretty decent street art.
I took a picture of the famous water tower which, along with the building I spotted on the way into town, is kept there as a reminder of the recent situation. You can take a tour up inside of it, but I preferred to keep on as I had set myself a bit of ground to cover before I made it to Serbia that evening.
I noticed some shrapnel holes on houses on the way in too. Terrifying stuff. I took a picture of the memorial cross with the Danube in the background
and it felt good to see her lovely banks again, it's been a while since I saw Mother Danube as I have come to know her.
I set off on the final stretch to Bačka Palanka, a town just in on the Serbian border. The evening light was extraordinary, with that orange hue that made everything look so beautiful and perfect at I whistled through a series of villages - Sotin, Opatovac, Mohovo & Sarngrad.
Each village meant a steep descent and ascent again and this has been the most strenuous part of the trip since France or getting up to Donaueschingen. I was a bit conscious of the time and not having any accommodation sorted, but confident enough I would find something as long as I made it to Bačka Palanka and anyway, I had the tent which is always the best back up plan ever. The villages looked nice though, with paprikas drying in the sun
and locals all in a bar at another. I saw a couple of other bike tourists huddled over a book, presumably wondering if they should find accommodation there or push on. I am glad I pushed on as I went through customs at both ends and even got my passport stamped in Serbia.
It didn't take too long to find a lovely hotel with breakfast and have now adopted my new approach of throw everything on the floor asap to get dry, shower and get out. I know every item I own, down to the smallest cable, so no problems packing in the morning.
The town was buzzing and the bars on the main street downstairs were heaving. As usual I was hungry and stopped off for a full sized pizza. It was so good, I went back to buy another which everyone seemed to find amusing. I don't think they realised how far I had been cycling and I have a big engine to feed. Took a shot of the sun setting at the end of the street; another belter of a day.
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